Browsing Date

2015

Destinations, Europe

Seeing and Eating my way through Reykjavik (more eating)

July 6, 2015 • By

When I packed my Lululemon yoga pants for the trip, I anticipated wearing them on the hiking excursions I would be taking but since I am solo and have been partaking in private and group tours, they are currently being utilized for the expandable ahem elastic waistband needed after a absolutely delicious meal in Reykjavik.

No one told me I would encounter such beauty, such color, and such lingering impressions of the FOOD in Iceland. There wasn’t one guidebook or blog that suggested I would need to apply to Weight Watchers or Atkins upon my re-entry into the United States. Enough about my problems, let me share with you how I have been eating and seeing my way through Iceland.

Editor’s Advice: Don’t shy away from local food such as whale, puffin and lamb soup.  To experience a foreign land is one thing; to get to know it through its food is quite another.

Enjoy Fredrik 5, Laugavegi for a surprise tasting menu with wine pairings. My three-course overindulgence included an Icelandic favorite of dried codfish, skyr (similar to thick yogurt) accompanied by fresh warm kale and sun-dried tomato bread, a fish serving with cod and lobster and finally lamb and a side of shepherd’s pie. My dessert consisted of edible flowers with a chocolate sensation to cure any sugar craving.

For a quickie informal lunch don’t miss Sea Barron at the old harbor, Geirsgata 8. Taste any of the skewers of whale, salmon, shrimp and scallops but definitely don’t miss their famous lobster soup a salty, wonder of warmth to fill your cravings.

Yearning for a hipster scene? Look no further than Snaps, Þórsgata 1. My friends spotted Björk here in November. I was not so lucky but on July 4 I did meet a fellow American avoiding life for a while, which is always fun. Savor the mussels and find a soup spoon to enjoy the sauce. Slurp away because you cannot waste one bite. Try the lemon tart and select a local beer like Einstok Pale Ale to quench your thirst. The food is delicious and the atmosphere makes you feel like you tried a “cool” place.

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Trying the Mussels

 

Dinner with a view you ask? Then my answer is Kopar, Geirsgötu 3.  Order the tasting menu or do it yourself with fancy seafood, salads and oooohhh the bread and butter.  I recommend the cod and cheese-laden potatoes and don’t stick your nose up at the horse sampling.  It’s worth a taste–a few bites at least. In texture, it’s like rare tuna and the flavor is fine but I did possibly imagine an after taste and washed it down with a sauvignon blanc just in case.  f you have room for dessert, I suggest the caramel heaven sampler, my server’s favorite and mine too.

For a quickie, go once, twice, maybe even three times to Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, Austurströnd 3.  My dislike of onions prevented me from the sampling the works but I ordered up the rest of the fixings, which includes mustard and a special sauce. Who needs pork or beef when you can have a lamb dog? It’s the only way to go in Iceland.

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Lamb Hot Dogs

For real fish and chips, I ventured into Fish Restaurant Reykjavik, Ingolfsstraeti 8, & Skolavoroustig 23. It’s a bit more of a do it yourself but the fish was fresh and after a few hours pounding the streets of Reykjavik, it’s worth a quick stop.

Visit Old Iceland Restaurant, Laugavegur 72 for a quaint surprise. I happened upon this place as it looked inviting and an escape from the rain. In need of some veggies, I ordered the salad with mixed greens and Camembert cheese and the special “ling” fish of the day. Wow! The fish was cooked to perfection and the sun dried tomato and pesto dashes of flavor made this one of my favorite meals in Reykjavik. It was so good I shared the bottle of wine I ordered with my neighbors from the UK and then ordered “mom’s rhubarb cake,” which is nothing like my mother has ever baked out of a box or by scratch. It was more like a fresh bar of savory flavor  and granola oats with real whipped cream. Back to the Spandex.

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Mouthwatering I could have had a second

Go hungry! For my last night in Reykjavik, I followed my friend’s recommendation to try Grill Market.  You can follow the tasting menu or order off the menu.  As a solo diner, I opted for two appetizers the Minke Whale Steak, Puffin (local bird) and Lobster mini burgers, followed by lamb skewers and a main course of cod.  Lastly, I convinced myself since it was my last night and I must go out with a bang (or sick to my stomach) and order dessert. My server persuaded me to try the chocolate lovers ecstasy made with mascarpone sabayone, hot caramel sauce, coffee ice cream, rice crispies, and whip cream.  Indeed, it’s now on my top five list of sweet treats, a very coveted and most caloric specific list.

It’s possible the Red Cross is based in Iceland not for the natural disasters like the earthquakes and volcanoes but to rescue me from eating.  I noticed a freighter coming into port today.

For those needing a cafe kick, I highly recommend Reykjavik Roasters Kárastígur 1 to stay or to go and Cafe Paris, Austurstræti 14 for the leisurely coffee or tea drinker.

Need some 80s music and a lively environment, try English pub on a Friday or Saturday and for a special treat. Check out what’s happening at the Harpa daily.

Top 10 to see in Reykjavik

  • Learn a thing or two at a museum: The National Gallery of Iceland for art, the Maritime Museum for a history lesson on fishing and the sea or the Sagas Museum to hear “stories” of Iceland’s settlers and the National Museum of Iceland for an in depth look at the past
  • Take the On the Bus Off the Bus for a quick lay of the land
  • Walk the old and new port. See the Sun Voyager and Reykjavik’s modern buildings mixed with its old. Wander the downtown streets checking out the Parliament Building, City Hall and the Culture House

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  • Visit Perlan for the panoramic views
  • Shop Laugavegur Street and take home a Nordic sweater, hat or blanket.  Do I really need a blue and white gorgeous Nordic blanket for $165—Maybe?  Yes, I think I do
Main Shopping Street

Main Shopping Street

  • Eat Ice Cream – Icelanders venture out in the cold dark of night for their favorite.  Go for the soft serve it’s not like Mr. Softee at all.  It has flavor and substance
  • Visit Hallgrimskirkja, a Lutheran Church and check out its tower for the view
  • Buy a treasure at the Flea Market (only on weekends)
  • Meet the locals and have a conversation – they are kind and generous and will giggle at your attempts to go unnoticed
  • Go whale watching if that is your thing and then write a letter and ask them to stop killing the whales when you return to your country then definitely try Minke Whale in the restaurants
  • Just one more….swim in a geothermal pool

Destinations, Europe, History

Little bit about Iceland

July 6, 2015 • By

Reykjavik, known as Cove of Smoke, is the capital of Iceland with roughly 2/3 of the population residing in the city and it’s surrounding parts. It’s a relatively small area but it’s compact with design studios, art galleries, an active port, shopping, heated swimming pools, lots of fantastic food plus the Harpa and bars for music. It’s summer in the city and tourists are crowding the streets, highways, waterfalls and glaciers.

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view from the docks

Icelanders enjoy roughly 24 hours of sunlight from April – October. The sun gods are rewarding them for they will savor these days when the calendar turns October and the sun makes an appearance only three-five hours a day until the end of March. When I asked a local how he survives such darkness, he professed nothing changes. They just use more street and indoor lighting.

Iceland is the 18th largest island in the world with about seven percent habitability as the topography of the island consists of mainly mountains and glaciers – wasteland as locals refer to it.  Iceland is relatively young having formed on the ocean surface about 16-18 million years ago by a series of volcanic eruptions in the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.

The island is located at the juncture of two continents and lies between the North American and Eurasian plates, which spread at a rate of 2.5 centimeters per year. Geological depictions that map Europe and North America some 65 million years ago and today actually show Iceland moving closer to North America but it will probably be another 60 million years before Iceland attaches to other land.  Americans are rooting for a North American connect.

The earliest settler arrived in Reykjavik around 874 from Norway. At that time, the Vikings “seafarers” were setting out from Norway and Denmark some to seek freedom from tyranny in their homelands or possibly for food as their communities grew crowded. My guide Jon informed me that the Vikings lived and died by the sword, which may explain why Icelanders are so resilient, strong and happy today. They have fought for generations to survive. Iceland can blame the Vikings for the rats and mice and cats and horses. The only native animal to Iceland is the Arctic Fox and Arctic Tern(bird) .

To learn more about the Vikings

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Icelandic Flag

Iceland is one of the Nordic countries (Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, the Faroe Islands, Aland Islands and Greenland). The locals may resemble a Norwegian, Dane or Swede or German (think white blonde hair, tall, natural) but they are Icelandic people speaking Icelandic, a sub-group of the North Germanic languages. Please save us all and don’t try pronouncing anything. You will be wrong like way off! It is believed that if one of the earlier settlers returned to present day Iceland he/she would have no issue understanding as Icelandic is an insular language.

Give it a go if you must!

Góðan daginn – GO-than DYE-inn

(Hello)

Ég tala ekki íslensku – YEG TA-la EK-ki EES-len-skoo

(I don’t speak Icelandic – DUH!)

If you didn’t master that lesson, not to worry, everyone speaks English perfectly fine in Reykjavik and locals smile and giggle when you try speaking Icelandic anyway.

 

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View from the water