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Africa, Destinations, Do's and Don'ts, Middle East, Travel Tips

Don’t Take the Train

February 5, 2009 • By

On the advice of myself, I need to relax more. Pounding the pavement every day is hazardous to my health and information overload. My brain needs time to digest and my foot time to heal. That is why I took today to just admire the Pyramids of Giza and stroll the streets at leisure. I woke up at sunrise to see the rays of light cross the Great Pyramid of Khufu. The sky was still filled with smog but the beauty of the rocks shone through illuminating the granite stones.

I watched some classic TV – Ship Ghost–Yep I bet you missed that award winner–and then headed to the shops. It only took me about 20 minutes before I got myself into trouble. Some guy trying to take me to his shop irritated me and I snapped. I guess I sort of replied loudly and with some attitude that I simply wanted to walk and I disliked jewelry and perfume and that I already owned a papyrus. (From what I can tell these 3 are the staples). I thought I was just saying no but apparently I offended the guy and 2 other locals had to come to my aide as the guy wanted to come after me. A nice English-speaking guy informed me I should maybe not use that tone here in Egypt. Oooops.

Back to the pool for me.

I’m now on the sleeper train from Giza to Aswan. I WAS very excited to have more local flavor (and save $200) until about an hour ago when I saw a mouse and screamed. For those not in the know, I have an absolute fear of mice. My scream was so loud it brought some guy with a chief nametag and the other conductor to my cabin. They tried to tell me I did not see a mouse. I then told the “chief” I saw it run from one place to the other 3 times and it finally went under the door and likely to the next cabin. He asked again, “Are you sure?” Here is what I said to him. I live in New York. I know I saw a mouse. I’m pretty sure you know I saw a mouse and are trying to convince me I am crazy but guess what? You are moving me out of this car now.

He agreed to move me but not before throwing my shoe at me like there was a mouse in it and me screaming again. He found it hysterical.

The nice conductor moved my crap and I was so frazzled I didn’t think to tip but don’t worry he reminded me with the usual, “you not happy I not do good job?” Damn these people are ballsy.

Oh and don’t worry mom I WILL be flying back to Cairo.

Wish me a mouse free night.


Africa, Destinations, Middle East

The Pyramids and the Cost of Happiness

February 5, 2009 • By

Does anyone really believe I drank 2 bottles of red wine each night and got up at 6 am and toured? The answer is… no. Unfortunately, it took me fighting with the manager at the Hilton Ramses before I convinced him not to charge me $60 from the mini bar. When the manager asked me if I was sure I did not drink the wine, I sarcastically responded that if he wanted to see me drink 4 glasses of wine he would likely be sending me to the hospital or paying for me to spend an entire day if not more in a hotel room, which would cost him much more than the $60 I was refuting. After an hour of that nonsense, he informed me it was ok because they always listen to the customer. WHAT? Then why did we just waste all this time arguing?

The morning was off to a rocky start since the megaphones announcing prayer (think bomb squad) woke me up at 4 am. It is my theory that 18 million people should be able to set an alarm but apparently I am in the minority since it happens like clock work 5 times a day. Maybe that’s why we stopped going to church in the US (my parents and God parents excluded). We need Big Brother reminding us it is time for mass.

Once I got out all of my aggressions and devoured my Egyptian falafel and foul (vegetable bean porridge thing), I set off to the pyramids. I’ve decided Africans in general have two phrases they firmly grasp in the English language hence they use them often. Those words being, “my friend” and “no problem.” Following a close third is “you happy?”

My tour guide has been showing people the sights for 17 years so I figured I was in good hands. He started giving me a rundown on what I would see, “you want to see the sights no problem. I told him I would like to see Islamic Cairo, the Citadel and Giza. “Ok my friend we see Mosques. The agency says you want to see 5-7 no problem.” Actually that is not me. I would like to see the historical mosques but I don’t need to see 7. “Ok my friend, no problem.” My day went on like that for 6 hours.

We kicked off in Memphis, the former capital of the Pharaohs’ and made our way to Saqqara to see the world’s oldest pyramid. Finally, we finished the day an hour before sunset seeing the Pyramids & Sphinx at Giza.

For starters, Ramses II was one very popular ruler. It is quite common for people to say Ramses is their great-grandfather because he had 50 wives and over 200 children. It is referenced all the time with many people saying, “Oh yes my great-grandfather…. He commissioned this tomb or that statue.” Staring up at a large pile of 5,000-year-old rock I have to remind myself they mean Ramses. He must have been a very busy man between caring for his wives, children and overseeing the statues and pyramids being built in his likeness. I don’t know when he had time to wage war. History reflects he ruled Egypt for more than 60 years. For all you movie fans, he is the ruler portrayed in “The Ten Commandments,” who married Nefertiti his great love.

I finally made it to the Pyramids of Giza. To say I was excited would be an understatement. My journey seemed complete the minute I looked into the clear blue sky and stood before these towering tombs of rock and magnificent works of architecture. It’s hard to imagine that most pyramids took 25 years to build and many rulers did not live to witness the final installments. They just “lived” to be buried in them!

I just had to take a camel ride between the pyramids. It was of course the only way to see all 9 pyramids in a line. I felt like a queen! The pyramids are an every day part of Egyptian life. They seem to rest in Cairo’s back yard similar to a child’s swing set.

The Pyramids of Giza were completed around 2600 BC and the Sphinx 2500 BC. It’s an incredible experience to be able to touch the rock that formed these marvels. I loved taking it all in so much that I even enjoyed the light show. I swear it was Ramses himself speaking to me from his tomb.

Remember “you happy?” I finally got the message. When the camel guy asked me 3 times if I was happy and I naively asked him why he kept asking me that, he said, “when we done if you happy you give good tip for me.” Little did I know this was the beginning of the end? I was dragged to a perfume store and then a bazaar and each place asked me if I was happy and then followed with “no fee for looking.” After seeing nothing of interest (14k gold hieroglyphics aren’t my thing) and I hate perfume, I got a lot of “you not happy? What about your mom? She like perfume?” Nope she doesn’t like it either.

Being happy apparently is costly in Egypt.