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Africa, Destinations, Middle East, Travel Tips

Egypt 101

February 18, 2009 • By

Just a few helpful hints for those of you planning your Egyptian getaway:

  • Fuul: it’s not fuel and only foul to some and you’ll most definitely be full after you eat it.  An Egyptian specialty consisting of porridge looking bean grub, you simply must try adding your favorite veggies or Egyptian spices.
  • No Smoking: forget about it and enjoy the second hand smoke.
  • Being blonde is one thing; being uncovered and blonde means earth girls are easy.  Use your imagination.
  • The English language: Egyptians know it and they speak it but it’s like most married men–They only hear what they want to hear.
  • The Nile Cruise and all that it entails: it’s magic, natural beauty and cheese all wrapped in 3-5 days. Keep your fingers crossed they don’t play bingo or board games on your cruise.
    Noise:  if you are sensitive to sound or value your hearing, bring ear plugs to Cairo.
  • Females: if you are single, this is the place to find a soul mate/husband.  If you are married (and unhappy), it’s a great place to leave your husband.
  • No Tipsy?  You better hope you don’t hear these words. They will be uttered when you “forget” to tip on top of the 12% service tax that apparently doesn’t really include service. (All lies.)
  • Baksheesh:  another scary word. Beside the marriage proposals, you will hear this more than anything in Egypt. Remember toilets and directions are NEVER free.
  • PSSST:  my personal favorite. This is what happens to single, uncovered women whenever they walk passed a Egyptian man.  It is done very quietly but loud enough for the intended victim to hear. I call it the Muslim sexual innuendo and find it quite annoying.
  • This is not Black Africa.
  • When you ask the taxi driver the fare and he says, “as you like.”  He really means, “hey sucker you pay what I want.”
  • Wake up calls:  they are not necessary. You have big brother on the megaphone calling you to prayer at 5 am.
  • “You’re Welcome:” this is used at will.  They think it means you are welcome (to Egypt). Ie.  “Is this your first time to Egypt?”  Yes, it is.  “Your welcome.”  Did you like your dinner?  Yes, it was good. “Your welcome.”  I didn’t say thank you. Oh well.
  • When single and trying to enjoy your meal don’t do anything but eat. Otherwise, every male service person will say to you without fail, “I should like to escort you.”  I never stayed long enough to figure out where my escort would lead but my advice is make friends fast.
  • “You come to my shop?  No buy!” This means you can come to my store and I will show you 80 rugs, 50 perfume fragrances and lie to you about the price. When you don’t buy, I’ll stomp up and down and give you dirty looks.
  • Originating from Ancient Egypt we have modern words and phrases like: Keep one eye opened, Nemesis, key to life.
  • Egyptian men are sly dogs and Egyptian women don’t think anyone knows they are wearing tight jeans and lingerie under those conservative dresses.
  • When all else fails and you can’t cross the street, either take a cab or hold on to an old lady.
  • Lastly, the Chinese tourists have replaced the Japanese; the Russian’s have replaced the French and Italian. The English are hanging on and the rest are naively afraid to visit an amazing country rich with history, beauty and culture.

Africa, Destinations, Middle East

The Sinai Peninsula and the Red Sea

February 17, 2009 • By

Everyone has a different definition of paradise.  I found mine in Sharm el Sheikh, Egypt on the Red Sea.  It’s funny since everyone told me to skip the Sinai Peninsula and head straight to Jordan.  When I heard it was warmer than Alexandria there was nothing to keep me away.  Sorry to say this but you see my body now finds 65 degrees FREEZING.

Where I last left you, I settled in Alexandria eating street food for $0.50.  The night before heading to Sharm I had a very sleepless night.  It’s clear the hotels in Egypt do not care if their customers die.  I smelled fire and called the manager on duty to report it (that is after I first talked to an operator and then a front desk person).  Instead of telling me someone would be right there, the manager asked me if I wanted to change rooms.  No (you idiot)!  I would like someone to come and figure out if the hotel is on fire because I prefer not to die.  Initially, he didn’t respond.  Then he said, “Yes, Mrs.Glynn (everyone calls me Mrs. here) we send someone right away.”  After 4 of us were sniffing the corridor and all agreed something was on fire, the manager suggested the maintenance people spray air freshener.  Again, I had to wonder how these people survive.  My blank face produced some results as the manager then said he would call the engineer.  Back in my room, I checked my windows for my exit plan and I tried to get some sleep.

The fun didn’t stop there since I forgot to set my alarm during the hoopla and therefore missed the 8 am train back to Cairo.  My travels never run smoothly but I figured I would still make my flight.  You see the hotel told me (and I listened) that the bus ride would only be 3 hours with buses leaving every 30 minutes.  Of course, Egyptians have an entirely different sense of time than I do. My 3 hour bus ride turned into 4 1/2 and I was within 45 minutes of take off and at the wrong terminal(courtesy of another local).  Having already yelled FUCK on the bus (when an Egyptian businessman told me I had another hour to go and that I should always add at least 2 hours traveling in Egypt), I now started getting huffy.  The security police didn’t seem to care and were not inclined to tell me which terminal my flight actually would be leaving from.  A crazy –and I do mean crazy– taxi driver who spoke English said he could get me to terminal 4 and assured me that after 20 years in this business I would not miss my flight.  He was right but it cost me.  He charged me $15 USD to go from one terminal to the next and let’s just say we defied all traffic laws.  What could I do?  I arrived to the check in counter sweating and completely deranged and ready to tell my story to anyone who would listen.  Apparently, it’s common knowledge that Egypt Airlines runs notoriously late so I wasn’t even the last to show.  There were several locals who strolled in right when the flight was due to depart.

Sharm el Sheikh is in a word beautiful.  It’s the French Riviera of Africa and home to deep red sand and red mountains.  At the bottom of the Sinai Peninsula, Sharmsits on the Red Sea parallel to Saudi Arabia and Hurghada on the Egyptian mainland.  A part of the mainland until the construction of the Suez Canal, it separates Africa from Asia.  It’s also home to Mt. Sinai where it’s believed Moses received the 10 Commandments from God.  I must admit the locals in Sharm are definitely less conservative than all of mainland Egypt.  It’s likely because there are an abundance of Russian, Italian and French tourists gambling and frolicking about wearing very little clothing.  There are bright lights and discotheques; malls and restaurants galore and the resorts are high-end including the Ritz and the Four Seasons.  People come here to relax on the beaches but mostly they come for the diving.  Off the coast, there are incredible coral reefs that even snorkelers will find worthwhile.

I tried snorkeling today but I only lasted about 20 minutes.  We were pretty far offshore where the waters are a bit colder.  After diving in the water, I really thought I might have a heart attack so I aborted my snorkeling mission and retreated to the warmth of the boat.  The few Egyptian men on board made me play figurehead of the Titanic with them.  Here I am freezing in my bikini – already feeling self-conscious as I’ve gained some thunder thighs- and these guys all want to take a picture with me spreading out my arms like Kate Winslet.  It was a bit insane but seeing that figurehead and Titanic were the only words they knew in English I had to go with it.  Yes I have pictures* to prove it.

I’m hiking Mt. Sinai tomorrow night and expect Moses will be guiding me to the top.  Should you wonder about my foot….Yes it is still injured but I must see the the burning bush and talk to God and all that jazz.

Oh and the belly dancing classes I’ve been taking prove one thing.  I won’t be a professional anytime soon and my hips move to the left much more than they move to the right.  In the event that I do master the moves, I have a very cute belly dancing outfit for my performance.

***You will never see these photos.