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Asia, Destinations

Houston we have a problem in Pingyao

November 28, 2014 • By

What type of sign is it when a black cat crosses your path twice in a span of 24 hours–once at the Great Mosque in Xi’an and today on the sidewalks of Pingyao? I’ll tell you what it means. It means start saying your prayers – quickly. I’ve relocated from civilization to another ancient walled city but this one remains as if I stumbled back into time to 1370 AD. By train, I traveled three hours from Xi’an through air polluted clad towns and villages. This is an agricultural area but what concerns me is that the air quality is so horrible I must now be inhaling radioactive waste ad nauseum and now I am also digesting it. Bring on the health scare in about twenty years. Did I mention I wish I paid attention closer attention in that environmental biology class by sophomore year at MSU?

Pingyao, China, China Tourism, Pingyao Tourism

The Pingyao alleyways – the road to nowhere

Since it’s Friday at 5:00 PM and it’s happy hour somewhere in the world just not here, I am giving you the abridged version of the great ancient city of Pingyao that time has forgotten and yet again tourists have found. My time in this place warrants alcohol. According to Wikipedia, the encyclopedia of the Internet, Pingyao is about 445 miles from Beijing (there is hope I will return to this century soon). It’s an ancient city that dates back some 2,700 years. During the Qing dynasty, the last imperial dynasty in China from 1644 -1912, it served as the economic center. Believe it or not some 50,000 people currently live in this Clint Eastwood Western. In 1997, it was named a World Heritage Site because of the amazing scarves, lacquer and beef. Just seeing if you are paying attention but that is a strong possibility based on the potential shopping.

The city walls were constructed in 1370 (same as Xi’an’s ancient city wall). There are six fortified gates defending the city and trapping me into my adventure of torment. I’ve been captured by stray cats and dogs which are likely the centerpiece of most menus and it’s so cold that I really wish I bought my new GAP jeans a size bigger to fit some hello kitty long underwear underneath.

What type of fundraiser comes off 10 months of grueling work to relax in dusty (but yes still clean), ancient Pingyao? I’m evidently someone suffering from delusional episodes of grandeur. I’m looking for some empathy. Please!  What was I saying about not needing a face mask?

The city walls are the reason for the heritage site but the city contains a great number of Confucian and Taoist Temples as well. If I can recover from my demise by 8:30 AM, I will learn much more about my surroundings but since this is in the middle of nowhere it didn’t even make my fancy Fodor’s guidebook.

At some point in time, there were 20 financial institutions within the city and one such place is reputed to be the first bank in China. It’s most evident that the banks and the money have abandoned the town without a trace — Go on take your money and run comes to mind. What this town needs is a remodel and some modernization. I’m beginning to come around to the rest of the Chinese people- maybe modern is better?

Before I leave you and take part in the time honored Irish tradition of a Bailey’s and Coffee (oh this is so happening), my lovely day started talking to my parents for Thanksgiving (my mother is probably convulsing about now) and a visit to the luxurious Sofitel gym followed by a delightful breakfast, a mix of Chinese and Western specialties. Where it all went wrong —three minutes before the train left the station in Xi’an a grandmother and 1 1/2 year old baby piled in the seat next to me. Life is about signs. Next time, I’ll get off the train.

Pingyao, China, China Tourism, Pingyao Tourism

It’s taken me 10 days to learn how to say Thank You and now I am trying to forget it (kidding). It’s xie xie, pronounced see-eh, see -eh. I knew being friends with Canadians would eventually come in handy. Until today, I basically sounded like a jackass. “She She” one day, “She eh She” the next day and on and on….Oh and Hello….is Knee How. That I got. I just remembered all the pain I have in my knee and how my Chinese medicine man could fix me right up.

Tomorrow, it’s Pingyao and me against the world and an afternoon of massage therapy, cupping and acupuncture. I informed the woman at my guesthouse to prepare the works for me. I’ve earned the works. The countdown to Beijing begins…5 more glorious days and the Peninsula Hotel is mine.

Until then…think of me in your beautifully heated homes on your wonderfully cushioned beds eating your lovely turkey leftovers maybe talking in English with your friends and family. I’ll be struggling to keep my wallet out of the stores and my mouth away from cat ears. My handy dandy flashlight will be next to my bed so I am better able to crawl to the bathroom when the blackout comes…and it’s coming and I am ready.

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Asia, Destinations

A Chinese Thanksgiving

November 27, 2014 • By

Happy Thanksgiving! In solidarity with my countrymen, I ate the steamed pumpkin dumplings and the pumpkin congee (rice porridge) for breakfast. I also spent the morning at Starbucks and the afternoon breaking with tradition and shopping. I’ve reversed my decision never to marry and I am searching for a Chinese man. With this many Prada, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton stores in one city, I think I can find someone who can actually afford me.

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…..And back to our regularly programming of a tourist’s life in Xi’an.

While I mentioned earlier, there are a great number of factories in Xi’an. Agriculture is an equally important industry. They farm wheat, corn, persimmons (whatever those are) and pomegranates. I happen to love pomegranates so when my guide presented me with a slice, I hesitated at first because she cut it in four squares like an orange. She reassured me this was the way to go and I opened wide and gnawed away until she commented that I’m not supposed to eat the seeds. Who knew? I mean I’m fairly certain I’ve had pomegranate seeds for $10 a carton in NYC but I’m clearly not an expert and typically stick to juice. I’ve now devoured two pomegranates and their seeds in the last 24 hours. Hagan Daz can shove it.

I adored my guide “Phoebe” who spent the day with me in Xi’an. Before I visited China, I had a notion that Chinese women were the equivalent to “China dolls” –very pretty, made up and subservient at least that is the reason I thought so many Caucasian men preferred Asian beauties to Irish/German ones. So far, I found the opposite to be true. I am not saying Phoebe isn’t pretty because she certainly is but she dressed like a lululemon or gap version of me and stressed her independence at work and home. Most of the women don’t even wear make up!

When I told Phoebe about my vision of Chinese women, she thought that represented more her grandparents generation. Phoebe and her husband met at tourism school and work at the same company. They married at age 26 and have a five-year-old daughter who is in kindergarten. The both work full time and Phoebe’s parents seem to do most of the cooking and babysitting. I laughed when I asked Phoebe if she cooks and she giggled before responding that her husband does most of the cooking.   Later she revealed, her mother is an awful cook too and her father is the man in the kitchen.

Pingyao, China, China Tourism, Pingyao Tourism

My last view of the Drum Tower in Xi’an Friday morning.

It is widely reported that Chinese women who date or marry foreigners are frowned upon but Chinese men who marry foreigners are superstars. In this very male dominated society, I am rooting for the Chinese women. Phoebe said there is a genuine shortage of Chinese women due to the government imposed one child rule on the Han people, the ethnic majority in China, in the 1980s. She and her husband are both products of this ban and therefore wish to have only one child (although she is wavering maybe). Phoebe made it clear that she and her husband will need to provide for her parents, his parents and his grandparents and that being an only child is often challenging but at least now everyone is available to help her and spoil her daughter.

On a side note, everyone loves a good wedding. Phoebe’s wedding took place at a restaurant for lunch with 100 of her closest family and friends and no wedding rings are exchanged. This is what normally takes place in China. Can you imagine the savings? Start calculating. Unless the dress is $100k, couples are saving a whole lot of money, which leaves me to believe that is why they are sporting Chanel and LV bags. The average wage in Xi’an is about $6,000-$8,000 a month. That is about $750-$2,000 USD and I can’t fathom that salary warrants the number of shopping stores in this city.

The Chinese, however, do put a great deal of emphasis on dressing well. Even in the countryside, people present themselves in a suitable manner. I look like a schlepper compared to these people. Their clothing definitely does not equate to economic status. From what I have seen, even the less fortunate children and families in China maintain good hygiene and dress. I expected rags to some extent in the villages but even the street kids wear intact clothing.

That’s probably why sales people seemed revolted at my outfit while shopping today. Dressed like I was going hiking, these sales people either wanted nothing to do with me or they stood over my shoulder and made me so uncomfortable I couldn’t even browse. Needless to say, once I discovered the entire floor dedicated to cashmere with the average price listed over $1,000USD, I headed to the food court. I worked out all the stores were celebrating Thanksgiving by giving 30-50 percent off merchandise. I only figured this out after I ended up at the Gap to buy a pair of jeans. Get this…my jeans at the Gap in the States cost $50-$70. This Chinese pair (probably made in China) cost $83 BUT ding ding ding…Thanksgiving sale price of….$60 and back to where I started.

Xian, China, Chinese Tourism, China tourism, Xian Tourism

The Muslim Quarter, the Great Mosque

The Chinese are consumers. It’s hard to imagine this country ever slowing down. I want to take a non-scientific survey and see if Apple or Samsung are winning the cell phone war. It’s impossible to walk more than 10 feet without seeing a Samsung or Apple carrier or independent store. Even though Google, Twitter and Facebook are blocked (thank you Judith for the assist), there are some 500 million Chinese online. making China the largest Internet market in the world. While I thought the Chinese were prohibited from “communicating” per se, I was wrong. They may be restricted but they are finding ways around that daily. Until recently, you couldn’t even practice religion (Communism prohibits worship) but now people practice Buddhism openly. Public life is changing rapidly here. It’s like the song from the movie Hairspray, “You can’t stop the beat.” I think the rest of the world better watch out, the Chinese are a powerful force.

Check out the video of my morning in the park:

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The parks may be small but they are clean and open and locals are always exercising or playing games. This morning some older men caught me spying on their “whipping game” (I really hope this video plays or you will think I found myself in a chapter of Twenty Shades of Gray).

Intrigued mostly by the cracking sound, I watched them for several minutes before they insisted I take a try. I took hold of the leash made a few hula hoop moves along with some strong-arm action and attempted to whip the moving oversized thimble. My moves garnered many laughs until one man stopped me and tried to give me a proper lesson: Less twerking more figure eight motion. Nothing ventured nothing gained. I’m just hoping I’m not sore tomorrow.

Taking the high-speed train to Pingyao tomorrow. May the train be smoke free, the bathroom clean and my seatmate a single, handsome, rich 40-year-old something.

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