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A two-day sprint through Botogá Part 1

December 14, 2015 • By Kelly Glynn

If planning a trip to Bogota, you really must reserve four to five days in order to appreciate the city’s cultural institutions, as well as its many diverse neighborhoods. I crammed a little bit of eating, drinking and walking into my three days in Bogota.

Museo de Oro, the Gold Museum

My first day admittedly was a flop, which meant I needed to make the most of my time on day two and three. I started the day early arriving at Museo de Oro (Gold Museum) when it opened at 9AM. It’s worth an hour or two to explore the beautiful pre-Colombian gold collection and to learn how gold, emeralds and macaw feathers play into the history of what is now South America. The craftsmanship is quite impressive.

Plaza de Bolivar, traditional Spanish square and the center of historic Bogotá

Back on Carrera 7 (the main thoroughfare), I navigated the National Geographic Traveler Walk Through La Candelaria. It covers most of the historical district and sheds a light on colonial times with an eye on the present. The obvious start to the walk is Plaza de Bolívar named after Simón Bolívar, known to Colombians (and many South Americans) as El Liberator. His name graces public parks everywhere and statues and sculptures of him proudly occupy squares throughout Bogotá.

The Presidential Palace in Bogotá, Case de Nariño

Making my way toward the Presidential Palace, Casa de Nariño, a police officer shooed me away from the gates as I set off some sort of invisible alarm. I moved undeterred because a picture without security bars is essential to portraying the beauty of the building but when I went to exit the area two officers wanted to rummage through my bag a second time in case I was planning some sort of assault. It seemed like a good idea not to upset the officers so I wandered down an alternative route until a gentleman asked me where I was going. When I replied, “I don’t really know” in English. He politely said, “If you don’t know, then it is better for you to go another way” and he pointed me back to Plaza de Bolívar. Point taken and I returned though the security gates to tourist land. It is possible to spend an entire afternoon tackling the sights of Plaza de Bolívar but bring tuppence for the birds or an umbrella for cover. The pigeons are ripe for the taking.

With limited time I moved briskly through Museo de la Independencia (you must have an English guide unless you speak Spanish) and Museo Botero. I’ve never been a huge fan of modern art but I really enjoyed Fernando Botero’s work. Botero is a figurative artist and sculptor originally from Colombia. He transforms plump into sexy appealing, and chic. It’s a free museum and houses 85 other artists like Claude Monet and Pablo Picasso. I highly recommend.

Antigua Santafe in La Candelaria

I finished my walk at Plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo, where Bogotá was founded in 1538 and then rewarded myself with a tamale and rice pudding from Antigua SantaFe. After consulting with my waiter, I settled for something less filling but when the 8-inch corn stuffed tamale arrived with a chicken leg fixed atop I negotiated I would not eat the arepa and only half of the tamale. When my waiter presented me with dessert choices, I completely caved and powered through a rice pudding topped with raisins, a local favorite.

The most important thing I learned in Bogotá is how to follow directions. Why is this necessary? The avenues or carreras move east to west and the streets or calles move south to north. Otherwise, I walked in circles not completely understanding why I passed 1 and then was back at 11. It’s very confusing and necessary to grasp quickly. As you move south, the neighborhoods change drastically and the discrimination in social classes becomes visible. It’s best to keep to the center or the north in the city. The northern neighborhoods of Zone Rosa, Chicó, Parque 93, Usaquén remind me more of fancy suburbs in Los Angles or New York City complete with modern shops and the likes of Jimmy Choo and Dolce & Gabana. I am convinced the drug industry is funding but my guides informed me there is money to be made in Colombia.

Santa Veracruz Plaza Santander in La Candelaria

I wrapped up my sightseeing with a Spanish speaking mass at Santa Veracruz in Plaza Santander off Carrera 7. My Catholic guilt got the best of me after I visited approximately 15 churches and prayed that I would not get mugged at every one of them. There was a big crowd for a Saturday 6PM mass maybe 100 people. Crying babies drowned the choir, women pushing strollers down the aisle and in front of the alter provided a distraction and men holding up their hands as if they were surrendering (maybe to God) provided more entertainment than a Broadway show. Adding to the chaos, Malonga (tango) music blasted outside the church the entire mass but the priest preached unfazed for 33 minutes. When mass ended, I admired the furnishings and the beautiful design and then giggled for a few minutes. At the very least, my parents and Godparents will be proud.

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Travel fail day in Bogotá

December 12, 2015 • By Kelly Glynn

Arriving in Bogotá, Colombia after a mere six hour flight from New York City, I should have felt refreshed and ready to hit the streets but what ensued after Colombianos partied all night celebrating the feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe shows what happens when travelers visit a place unprepared.

In reality, I broke every rule in my self-proclaimed Travel 101 Guide.

1.) Blend in with the locals. It is obvious I have blonde hair and already stick out in most countries but I normally pack demure outfits as to not draw attention. With colors blazing on my first day in Bogotá, I donned my purple vest and pink fleece to attract even more gawkers. If that wasn’t enough, I let the sun scorch my face and now I am certainly not blending.

Soaring over Bogotá, Cerro de Montserrate

2.) Check for environmental limitations: When I was huffing and puffing up Cerro de Montserrate, I blamed lack of exercise the last few weeks but then my mouth begged for water and it dawned on me I was suffering from altitude. Ding ding..that would be the right answer as Bogota sits at 8,660 feet (2,640 meters). Oh and I am susceptible to altitude sickness. No bueño!

Pint size Taxis in Bogotá

3.) Ask a local: When in doubt, ask a local they are typically keen to assist. What I did was plain wrong. I asked every local I passed by if it was safe to walk down this block. Even though many locals commented on my poor Spanish or prompted that I take the bus, I convinced myself the exercise seemed more important than my safety, which brings me to my next point.

4.) Safety: Former Colombianos living in the United States told me safety concerns were definitely exaggerated. Articles online referenced petty theft so I mentally prepared myself to be mugged (It’s a common thing for me). After spending a few hours walking around and dodging many of the roughly 8 million people who live here, I am now bracing to be killed at the hands of a daredevil motorcyclists or an everyday bicycler rather than a mugger but I am open to that as well.

5.) Vulgar language: A tourist should never raise her voice when talking to locals. It’s a sign of respect and privilege to be visiting another country. That lasted for all of 45 minutes once I missed two buses, toured four different blocks looking for another bus and returned to the hotel exasperated. I highly recommend having a breakdown in English when the hotel staff only speak Spanish. They are convinced I am deranged. I am confident my performance was effective.

6.) Hire a local guide: When my first attempt at public transportation and touring failed, I hired Gustavo, an English speaking driver who lived in NYC for 20 years. He promised me a three-hour scenic tour, which turned into five hours because we sat in traffic much of the loop. If learning is a priority, book tours in advance or figure out an agency to visit right when you arrive. I paid by the hour.

Juan Valdez does Coffee in Colombia

7.) Eat local: It’s early. I am in a new country and I see a Starbucks like a mirage in a desert. I pause and even go inside but I depart wiftly and walk to MY girl’s favorite neighbor Juan Valdez because 1.) Juan has a bathroom I desperately crave and 2.) this Starbucks is not selling my prized collector mugs. I only ended up at Juan Valdez because my patience got the best of me and I abandoned dunkin donuts after a 10 minute wait (in fairness my seatmate told me their dulce de leche donuts called Arequipe.

8.) Shop ’til you drop: Markets and I are like salt and pepper or Baileys and coffee or maybe eggs and bacon. When the driver pointed out the gold and emerald jewelry shops, the skin on my arms stood alert and my heart started to beat a little faster but then he described how the area area used to be controlled by the cartel and the thought of being ripped off and finding myself followed by thieves curved my appetite.

9.) Don’t ask Stupid questions: I maintain I am very respectful of my host country but in this instance I claim utter stupidity. Bogotá is divided by a social class system, 1 being the very poor and 6 being rich, after about 2 hours with my driver I thought it would be a smart idea to ask him which class he considered himself. He answered 4. I thought that sounded pretty good until he pointed out typical 4 housing and I realized the middle class in Bogotá get by but nothing more.

Christmas Lights Plaza de Lourdes in Chapinero

10.) Trust yourself: My driver gave me a second cell phone and at first I thought it was strange but then I realized he cared for my safety and didn’t want me to get lost. I smiled. I felt welcomed and I confirmed this will be a great trip.

Up Next a Historical look at Bogotá

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